The coronavirus pandemic has upended daily life as we know it. It has changed how we work, how we learn, how we socialize. And it has changed how we eat.

Increasingly, the pandemic has driven a wedge between us and our food. We’re now more likely to be ordering at home, on a screen, from a third-party marketplace—quite possibly from a restaurant that’s not a restaurant at all.

That order is sometimes traveling miles to get to us and arriving in a box or a bag, often left at our doorsteps without a trace of the person who brought it there, not to mention the person who prepared it.

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